Friday 7 December 2012

Grit Week

So from the 9th of November till the 14th I spent a week up on the grit, had a really good time ticking classics and climbing in a new area for me. So i started the week by ticking a few classics such as flying buttress direct, and The Tippler, i also soloed so many routes i don,t even no where to begin. I then climbed Censor which is given E3 5c but dam i found it bold i placed a wire blind round the lip and it was the wrong size but it was to hard to get back out so I had to press on through the crux with a bad deck potential. I also managed to climb Moss Side E4 6a which was good fun got it on my second try after a little slip, but the real goal for me was to climb Strapadictomy at Froggatt so towards the end of out trip we took a walk up and scoped the route i felt confident i could do it so went for the onsight. I climbed the first bit easy up to the move right, placed some cams and the wire out right and down climbed. I took a rest and then went for it so back up to the move right which i did fine but i had placed the wire in my hand slot so didnt make the next move and fell. i then had to lower off and get the gear. so i tryed it on a toprope instead and kept slipping off a smear which is uber polished. So i eventually got to the top and was pretty nackered, we packed up and went to the pub. The next day tho we came back and i managed to get the route on my second try placing the kit. i found an easy sequence through the top which felt good for me. I do have a video of it but waiting for Bruce to send it to me so i can upload it.

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