Sunday 25 November 2012

The Hunger

So my Latest Big thing is a new route i have put up on Bird Rock near Tywyn it is a 40M pitch which is quite hard about F7b.
As its a Trad Route though it gets E7 6b, You start up this nice easy bit or rock (5a) which climbs up to a groove. When you arrive at the groove there is some decent kit, so you truck on up an E4 6a to the ledge where you get a decent sling and an insitue wire. From here you start the first crux sequence which passes a very bad peg ( blade peg about 5mm deep). You pass this up and leftward to a good rest then make a rock over move up to some slopers, from here you move up and left to a good hold and the sanctuary of half a dozen cams. You then step up and Right into a groove, from here you step back left onto the overhanging face and pull into a porthole. Then all that remains is a hard rockover from a tiny crimp and an easy finish to the top. Massive air if you fall off but you really don't want to fall off, the top section is safe but you could have a bad fall from the middle crux which could result in a 25m deckout worst case. Hence the Grade... here is a photo of the route


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